FINISHED! The Valentino Silk Scout Tee

I bought a metre of Valentino silk ('Spot on' 100% Silk Satin Organza) from Tessuti when I was in Sydney recently. Of course, it was such a fantasy purchase - did I really think that I could make something - wearable - with it! I was batting way above my sewing weight.  It is silk, yes, so naturally tricky but also the spots on the fabric are placed so evenly (which is why I love it) but it just made sewing with it just that bit more difficult.  I spent so much time counting and checking spots to make sure I lined and matched the seams up as best as I could and that the fabric hadn't moved during cutting!  I've sewn before with silk (from Tessuti) but never with such organza and both times my hand was held.  This time I was on my own and every now and then I'd think about how much this was per metre, (I'd remind myself that a not particularly original store bought top would probably cost as much and my confidence came back and then I stopped worrying about it).
Valentino silk Grainline Scout tee
The idea was to make something simple, to counteract the fabric difficulty factor.. like a Grainline Scout tee.  It is a very stiff silk organza so I hoped that it would hang ok.  Originally I was going to make it sheer and just wear camisoles underneath, but decided instead to underline it with some silk habutai which I bought on Sunday from Addicted to Fabric.  I'm so glad I did. I had never underlined anything before and enjoyed the challenge and I love the result with the sheer sleeves and the lined bodice.
Valentino silk Grainline Scout tee  
I have made a scout tee before, in lace and the fit was good so I didn't do a muslin. BUT in the underlined silk the fit was slightly different, quite different in fact. As I drafted 3/4 sheer sleeves by just lengthening the pattern and making them as wide as the fabric would allow, it was really obvious how badly they fell on my shoulders. They didn't sit at all well and I had a problem that the neck was too wide and was a bit gapey at the front.

Valentino silk Grainline Scout tee  
Enter, my 'design feature' at the front. I just pinched about an inch from each side. It really does look much better in real life than in the photos and in fact today at work everyone was saying how lovely the top is and especially that fold in the front!! In the photos it looks a bit like it pulls but it doesn't and it does make the whole top sit better than in would have done.
Velentino silk scout tee 
The fit of the sleeves on the shoulders is still a little out but nothing to worry too much about.  I thought maybe that I had put the sleeves in wrong, but unpicked one and reset it since taking some of these photos.  

The cuffs are self drafted (just a rectangle!!), but I ummed and ahhed about whether or not I would interface or use the black silk. I did neither in the end and just folded over the fabric.  I think it worked ok. The other times I've sewn with silk I just hemmed using a rolled hem.  This time I wanted a more substantial hem so used the trick of sewing a line then turning it up, then sewing anothe line.  I then just machine hemmed it so that it would sit better.  I hand sewed binding (made from the spotted silk) on the neck and oh, yeah, all the seams are 'Frenched'. 

So there you have it. My Valentino silk scout tee with a design feature. I wish I could do a repeat outfit to work this week because this top paired with my Miette skirt would be it!
Valentino silk scout tee

39 comments:

  1. Just stunning. My all time favourite from your collection.

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  2. Lovely! I never would have recognized it as a Scout - the fold at the front really does make it special and unique!

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  3. Your are on an epic roll at the moment! Loving how the Scout has turned into a fancy work blouse :D

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  4. Stunning. Keeping it simple is often the best! Must get on that underlining bandwagon as I have some sheer fabric and wearing a slip doesn't appeal.

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  5. Beautiful job! I love a sewing project that involves a little bit of self-drafting (especially when i am generally rubbish at proper drafting, so i feel all the better when my humble attempts work out!) Oh and i saw that fabric in the melbourne tessuti recently, and was in awe of it, but didn't know what i could do with it. You have inspired me to go back for a second look!

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  6. I had to look twice at your post title to make sure this was the Scout Tee. This is gorgeous and so perfect with your Miette! I'm glad that you had to do the design feature since I think it really dresses the top up and makes it unique! Great idea too to just underline the front and back. I think you can really play with what you've done here to come up with all sorts of great variations. Love this one!!

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  7. Thank you! It is a disguised Scout !

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  8. Thanks Amanda. Nothing like a bit of a mid winter sewing roll!

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  9. Thanks Anna.The underlining was surprisingly easy. Every time I thought of wearing a slip/cami I thought of my bra strap showing as well .. not a great look.. so underlining it was!

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  10. Oh you must go back and get some of this fabric! I hear you with the drafting.. it's baby steps for me :)

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  11. Thanks Shar! Yes, it looks a bit different but I can assure you that it is a scout. It will come as no surprise to you that I was tempted to put a bow on it :)

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  12. This is lovely - I wouldn't have guessed that it was the Scout just from the photo! Well done with tackling the silk - it really payed off.

    I've noticed that each of my Scouts fit slightly differently depending on the type of fabric used, even though I cut the same size each time.

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  13. I Love your tee tucked into your skirt! Lovely silhouette! I am always so nervous cutting into new fabric..even if it didn't cost much. I would have been a wreck with this fabric! Great job.

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  14. Ha, ha - not surprised at all and I'd like to see that! You already have your next design variation :).

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  15. Lovely top. I like the sheer sleeves with the underlined body.

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  16. Lovely, classic and it looks great with your skirt. It was a brilliant idea to pair the lux fabric with a simple design. I'll definitely keep this tip in mind. I like that pleat at the neckline too.

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  17. This is just stunning. I love it tucked in with the Miette Skirt, its just gorgeous and the sleeves look great too. I love the front pleat. That happens to me too (and its great when it does) - a last minute fix that completely "makes" the garment and looks totally intentional. Love.

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  18. Oh wow! This new top is just stunning! you are really knocking it out of the park with all your lovely new blouses lately :)

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  19. You are so brave...organza, no less! I applaude you Kirsty, you´ve got a lovely blouse now. I love how it looks tucked in!

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  20. Thanks Shivani! I don't think I'll be doing loads of silk sewing, but it was kind of fun! I'm glad to hear that you have also had the problem with different fit/different fabrics.

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  21. Thanks Erin. A simple design takes a bit of the pressure off sewing with such lux fabric :)

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  22. Thanks so much! Yes, it's fab when the stars align with our sewing. Yes, I think I prefer it tucked in and that with the Miette has become my favourite outfit.

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  23. I think I like it better with jeans/trousers but it looks cool either way! Great job in lining the bodice and keeping a nice balance with sheer sleeves! ♡♡♡

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  24. What a simple but effective design element addition, very nicely done! Beautiful fabric as well.

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  25. this is so pretty, and you really made the pattern your own- I would have never guessed it was a Scout! My favorite part is the front pleat, what a happy accident!

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  26. Thanks Inna, I wore it today hanging out with my shorts/stockings and I think this is my favourite of looks. I suppose it depends on the mood :)

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  27. Thanks Kelly. Yay to happy accidents.

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  28. So pretty! I love the fabric, and - as others have said - would never have picked this as a Scout. It looks so glam tucked in to the skirt.

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  29. Thanks Suzy ! Btw, I'm reading the Paris Wife at the moment and loving it!

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