I bought a metre of
Valentino silk ('Spot on' 100% Silk Satin Organza) from
Tessuti when I was in Sydney recently. Of course, it was such a fantasy purchase - did I really think that I could make something - wearable - with it! I was batting way above my sewing weight. It is silk, yes, so naturally tricky but also the spots on the fabric are placed so evenly (which is why I love it) but it just made sewing with it just that bit more difficult. I spent so much time counting and checking spots to make sure I lined and matched the seams up as best as I could and that the fabric hadn't moved during cutting! I've sewn
before with silk (from Tessuti) but never with such organza and both times my hand was held. This time I was on my own and every now and then I'd think about how much this was per metre, (I'd remind myself that a not particularly original store bought top would probably cost as much and my confidence came back and then I stopped worrying about it).
The idea was to make something simple, to counteract the fabric difficulty factor.. like a
Grainline Scout tee. It is a very stiff silk organza so I hoped that it would hang ok. Originally I was going to make it sheer and just wear camisoles underneath, but decided instead to underline it with some silk habutai which I bought on Sunday from
Addicted to Fabric. I'm so glad I did. I had never underlined anything before and enjoyed the challenge and I love the result with the sheer sleeves and the lined bodice.
I have made a scout tee before, in lace and the fit was good so I didn't do a muslin. BUT in the underlined silk the fit was slightly different, quite different in fact. As I drafted 3/4 sheer sleeves by just lengthening the pattern and making them as wide as the fabric would allow, it was really obvious how badly they fell on my shoulders. They didn't sit at all well and I had a problem that the neck was too wide and was a bit gapey at the front.
Enter, my 'design feature' at the front. I just pinched about an inch from each side. It really does look much better in real life than in the photos and in fact today at work everyone was saying how lovely the top is and especially that fold in the front!! In the photos it looks a bit like it pulls but it doesn't and it does make the whole top sit better than in would have done.
The fit of the sleeves on the shoulders is still a little out but nothing to worry too much about. I thought maybe that I had put the sleeves in wrong, but unpicked one and reset it since taking some of these photos.
The cuffs are self drafted (just a rectangle!!), but I ummed and ahhed about whether or not I would interface or use the black silk. I did neither in the end and just folded over the fabric. I think it worked ok. The other times I've sewn with silk I just hemmed using a rolled hem. This time I wanted a more substantial hem so used the trick of sewing a line then turning it up, then sewing anothe line. I then just machine hemmed it so that it would sit better. I hand sewed binding (made from the spotted silk) on the neck and oh, yeah, all the seams are 'Frenched'.
So there you have it. My Valentino silk scout tee with a design feature. I wish I could do a repeat outfit to work this week because this top paired with my
Miette skirt would be it!
