FINISHED! Striped Saiph

Today I have my finished Papercut Patterns Saiph tunic to show you!  I know, another 'drop waist' style. I promise I have some non drop waist styles in my future.  Really!

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Toni Maticevski
At Addicted to Fabric late last year I found a lovely navy striped linen. Very sheer but with a lovely stiff drape - a bit like a silk organza? They don't often have navy based fabrics - usually stocking a majority of black and grey fabrics, so quite a few times, I picked up the roll, walked around the shop and put it back, not so sure what I would do with a sheer linen. Of course by the time I decided that I had to have it, there was only 1.5 m left.  I took it home still completely at a loss as to what to make with it - knowing that I'd probably have to line it and it wasn't enough to make a dress. Eek. I rarely buy fabric that doesn't have a plan attached to it, but this was one of them.

Inspired partly by this dress by Toni Maticevski (an Australian designer) that I saw on one of the screens at the Modern Love exhibition in Bendigo (Fortunately a bit of detective work by MaciNic yesterday identified it as his. I had taken a blurry photo of it on my camera but couldn't remember the details of the dress) and also by Marc Jacobs (of course) I decided to trial the Saiph tunic with stripes.

I bought the Saiph pattern and the Rigel Bomber when the new Constellations season was launched last year, and on Friday I purchased the Sigma dress.  I see a few papercut pattern makes in my future! Papercut Patterns really are beautifully packaged, but I'm going to go against the grain. I prefer a PDF pattern now.  I hate tracing and I enjoy sticking those sheets together! Anyway, the Saiph has two variations. For a really cool version of Variation 1, check out the inimitable Sallieoh. Obviously I didn't have enough fabric to make it with sleeves so made a sleeveless version of Variation 2 and this variation provided an opportunity to use the stripe.
I lined the whole thing in a cotton voile, which works pretty well with the linen. The lining is just a mimic of the actual dress attached at the arms and neck. I wasn't sure whether to attach the lining to the dress or just let it hang, but opted to join them about an inch or so on each side.  It works, but not sure if this is 'constructionally correct'.  I'd love to hear your thoughts as to what you would have done.
Overall, I'm very happy with my workmanship on this dress. The construction is simple (only 3 pieces and a simple button closure - which could easily be omitted), so I tried hard on the little details like pressing and understitching and matching. I did a simple rolled hem from my overlocker on the lining, but for the dress did a teensy tiny hem using the same method I learnt with Gertie's Sailor Blouse. It worked well. As you can see the dress is pretty short so I was trying to limit the hem.  By the way, I'm short. Just shorter than 160cm (5'2") so if you are taller you might need to think about how long you might like the dress.  With a bag over the shoulder it does tend to ride up a little!
The only issue is really the size. I was approaching this dress as an experimental dress and part of that experiment was to check the size.  I made an XS but in hindsight could/should have made a XXS. It is big although the plus with that and due to the fabric drape it has a great trapeze look.  
The only major problem is the armscye. It is huge.  Noted for next time! I think even with a sleeve in it would be too big. If I keep my arms down though it's not noticeable.. so the arms will stay down when I wear it.  
This dress makes me feel very 60's mod.  It is fun!  Many years ago I used to have a little pink shift dress made by Morrissey Edmiston (in the late 1990's? that's how old I'm talking) that I used to love to wear out and about when I lived in Sydney. This dress makes me feel how I did in that dress all those years ago!  

70 comments:

  1. Ooh that is absolutely stunning - I really want one exactly the same but my size!! I think it's my fave top notch make ever...:)

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  2. I LOVE it!! Fabulous pattern to fabric match. Well done. L x

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  3. Wow, I really love this! I think wide stripes like this can be difficult to pull off but they're really effective on this dress. I think the length is perfect too- if the flounce/ skirt was any longer I think the dress might look a little unbalanced. Besides, you've got the legs for it, so go for gold, I say :)

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  4. I totally love this. The stripes are fantastic - and I love the swingy look. I too have been looking at the Sigma dress - it looks like it would be the perfect fitted dress staple. Can't wait to see your version.

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  5. In love with this dress! Perfect fabric choice too . Heading over to papercut to take a look at their patterns right now!

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  6. This is a great dress. Edgy and chic. Glad you bought this fabric. Top choice Top Notch!!

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  7. Great post Kirsty! I love it - thise wide stripes, lined, working on the details, and the memory of past clothing. And it all works SO well!

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  8. Absolutely perfect! Awesome stripes and yes, a perfect length on you. Gorgeous choice of design for the fabric and I love your inspiration (& all of Toni's collection) ;)

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  9. What a fantastic use of your special fabric! I really like how you did the stripe placement on the skirt.

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  10. Thanks so much and thank you for your detective work yesterday!! Now that I've found your blog I've fixed up the link so you are now appropriately recognised for your Miss Fisher skills.

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  11. Wow, this striped dress is just gorgeous Kirsty! and I love how the stripes go on the skirt, and the loose shape. Perfect for summer!

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  12. This looks really, really great on you, I love it!

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  13. This is such a great silhouette on you Kirsty! I love the way you've done the stripes. It's a shame about the arm scythe being too big but it's one of those things you will notice more than anyone else. It looks fantastic!

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  14. You totally rock the drop waist! Love the fabric and the style. Can't help on answers to constructionally correct lining applications though, I almost never line as I don't have the time to make "two" dresses.

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  15. I love it when fabric just calls to you, even without a plan. Something special always turns up. I love this dress. The dropped waist style really suits you.

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  16. I love this on you so much. It looks soooo chic. I wore a Morrissey Edmiston dress to my high school formal, ahhh memories.

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  17. That looks really great on you- cute and retro, I love it!

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  18. It really suits you! Just lovely! I think the way you lined it sounds just fine! I'd have joined them at neckline, armhole and zip - if you're not sure about linings Connie long's book is fantastic and you can get an e book version through the Interweave store for about $15.

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  19. Renee //nearestthepinJanuary 12, 2014 at 9:15 PM

    So fun yet chic at the same time - a perfect summer dress :)

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  20. Oh I love this! What a striking and beautiful dress!

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  21. Oh la la! Tres chic!

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  22. Well this is quite something! Fabulous with the giant stripes, especially the way they shape on the (peplum style?) ruffle hem. You look very striking, and in all the right ways!

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  23. So pretty! Love the stripes and the flounce.

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  24. Gorgeous! Big stripes take this pattern to a very chic level!

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  25. Thanks so much Gabrielle.. I knew I was going to like it when I started wearing it half finished around the house for half the day.

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  26. Thanks L. It's nice to only have a couple of pattern pieces to play around with.

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  27. Oh I agree re the wide stripes. I was really worried that they would just overpower me. I agree that I think the whole thing benefits from the fact that it is short (and sleeveless!).

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  28. Thanks Rachel. My next make could well be the Sigma or that dastardly bomber.

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  29. Thanks Maria! It was really touch and go with this fabric but I'm glad I persisted - and managed to get some of it!

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  30. Thanks Jo. It is funny how clothes can be such a memory catalyst (if that's the right word).

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  31. Thanks Morgan. It was fun to experiment just a little. I was worried about the thickness of the stripes but luckily I think it all works.

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  32. Thanks so much Carolyn. I wore it today and it was just great in the high 30's weather.

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  33. Thanks Kathryn and your right about no one else noticiing. I just have to make sure I don't point it out to everyone!

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  34. Oh I agree re making two dresses.. that's why I ummed and aaahed over the fabric for so long. The thought of it was pretty off putting.. but then I realised the dress is only 3 pieces (without the facings) so I figured it was now or never!

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  35. Thanks Claire. You are right. Eventually it all falls into place.

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  36. Aaah, the memories! You know I couldn't find anything on google about the old label. It's like it never existed.

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  37. Thanks for the tip on the book. Will check it out.

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  38. Thanks Debbie. It is definitely fun to wear.

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  39. Thanks so much. I'm addicted to drop waist!

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  40. This dress manages to be the excellent combo of cute and stylish! I could never wear it in a million years but i love it on you! Another lovely make.

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  41. It's fantastic! You look so great in these styles!

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  42. This is the perfect silhouette on you! I love the flow of the stripes on the skirt. I think I would have hesitated using such a large stripe, but it was exactly the right choice for this pattern. Gorgeous!

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  43. I do love drop waist styles so much.. Great job on matching the stripes, and it really looks fab on you! This pattern is definitely on my to do list!

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  44. Good job Kirsty. I love the fabric & the use of the stripes. I agree about tracing - I decided on a last minute whim to cut my sigma pattern as I just couldn't bear tracing it. I had a pang of regret throwing out all off-cuts of pattern after the cut - what if I changed size sometime in the future?? PDF papercut patterns?

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  45. CUTE dress and, like you say, it's very Mod! I think this fabric is great - suits the shape of the dress.

    I also love PDF patterns - I quite enjoy putting them together & cutting them out. I do have a few paper patterns but I've not been sure how to treat them - sounds like they need to be traced over. Yawn.

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  46. Oh I did hesitate... many times in the store I can tell you. I'm amazed it paid off!

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  47. Thanks so much Angela. The stripes make it look more complicated than it really is.

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  48. I wish for PDF!! The good thing with the Saiph was there was only 3 pieces to trace and cut out.

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  49. Thanks Melanie. I've been naughty and cut out patterns before because I couldn't bare the thought of tracing. I have a habit of always making things too big so it works out ok if I have to cut down... but still I just love the taping and cutting of a pdf :)

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  50. You look great in this dress! A grown up version of drop waist dress.

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  51. Maider.... MasustakJanuary 14, 2014 at 8:29 PM

    It looks great on you! I love the way you have construct the garment, using the stripes in differents directions! I love PDF patterns but I am more careful with a paper version...many times I forget where is the PDF version between all the pieces of papers around my sewing corner...hahahaha

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  52. I love it! the stripe works really well on this design! I agree that the sizing is a little funky, and yes, the sleeves are big on the long sleeve version as well. But all in all I think it makes a really cute dress! Well done!

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  53. Thanks! Good to know on the sleeve version as well. It is a cute dress though and I think I'll make it up again in a sleeve version.

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  54. Wow, I love this dress! I see what you're saying about the fit around the armscye, but otherwise I really like the fullness & trapeze effect you've got going on here!


    Just discovered your blog via SewAmySew & am excited to read more about your lovely makes.

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  55. I am loving the stripes! So on-trend. I want that fabric!

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  56. Sorry for the delay in replying!! thanks so much for your lovely comments. I've just cut it out in a smaller size to see if I can fix the fit up a bit and it seems to have worked but I do love the trapeze effect too!

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  57. Aaah thanks! I'm pretty sure they still have it at Tessuti :)

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  58. Oh, you look adorable! Great silhouette, great fabric, {I'm a sucker for navy and white stripes too!}, and overall job well done! I'm under 5'2", so I'm going to check out some other posts. It's always helpful to get an idea of how styles look on someone of similar height!

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  59. Thanks so much! I agree re checking out other sewists who are about the same height etc!

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