FINISHED! Sigma Denim Dress

When I returned from Sydney on Sunday, the Sigma Dress pattern was waiting for me in the post box! I didn't buy this dress originally when I purchased the Rigel bomber and the Saiph tunic, but after seeing some cool versions popping up around the blogs, I decided that I could probably do with this dress in my wardrobe.  Just have a look at verypurpleperson (with good info on fitting), jolies bobines, offsquare and my-zee-moo!

I've also had this denim dress on my pinterest page for a while as well and started to see it made with the Sigma pattern and used it as a loose inspiration.  Oh and I also just bought some new ankle boots on sale and thought a little denim Sigma would go well with them! Of course.

I had heaps of denim I bought last winter from Spotlight in my stash, the same as I used for the Miette skirt and knew that it would give me the look I was after with the turned up sleeves.  The problem with this denim - and why I will never buy denim from Spotlight again, is that the colour is not set. (of course this can happen to the best denim but still...) This fabric was washed twice before using it and since finishing it I have washed it twice more with those 'sheet things' that you put in the wash (hopeless) and then once after soaking in white vinegar.  It seems better now, but probably needs another dose of vinegar. My hands still have a tinge of blue.  Sadly my Miette rarely gets worn because of the problem with the denim.

I made variation 1 without the gathers in an XS (despite clearly falling into an XXS at the bust and hips) as I was very worried that the size would be too small around the waist.  This was unnecessary worry as my waist is slightly smaller than the finished measurements and this denim has stretch in it, but I hate the idea of not being able to do something up.  And when I asked Ben to pin the bodice on me to make sure it fit he said that it was really tight! Mm, clearly fitting isn't his area of expertise. Next time I really need to grade from an XXS.  At least I think this is the answer? The front is fine - with the darts lining up nicely - it's just there is a lot of excess fabric around the top of the back and shoulders. You can see in this photo the excess fabric.

I find the sizing of Papercut Patterns really big and given I've sewn one, two, three Papercut Patterns now which are always too big, I should be onto the sizing by now.  But I'm not.  Next time.

There has also been mention of how short the dress is. I am 5'2" or maybe just a bit shorter and I made it as per the pattern. I like this length on me, it isn't exactly work appropriate.. but I wasn't making it for work. And with stockings on in the winter it will be fine.

The dress in total took only 2 days, plus a night for tracing. It comes together well, using a flat construction method. It is overlocked on the inside with pink thread just as I did with the Miette.

The only slow point was at the pockets which took me a while to figure out. These aren't the neatest but I know what needs to happen now, so next time I'll nail it. The inside of the pockets does show, so be careful of your fabric choice here. My whole dress is made out of denim including the facings and the pockets.

I found the facings in the pattern a little small, but ended up running a top stitch around it at the neck.  I would normally just under stitch the neck facing but felt a top stitch would be ok with the denim and something a bit like my inspiration piece.  Despite becoming almost obsessive about my ironing and grading I failed to staystitch the neckline.  I think it's ok, but gosh I was so annoyed. The step isn't in the pattern instructions, but still I should have done it.

I was also being really careful with my invisible zip but clearly not careful enough as I completely forgot to check to see if it was lined up at the back.  Urrgh. I could have unpicked it but given it was in so nicely and opening and closing like a dream (despite that somewhat major problem of not being lined up) I wasn't going to unpick a 55cm zip only to find that there were little threads all over the place to get stuck into the zipper, because that has happened before! Most Sigmas I've seen around are worn with a belt, so when I find a belt to match my boots I'll probably wear it with a belt to hide that atrocity..

So, in the end I really like this dress in denim, despite the fact that it is a bit big. I can almost see me making another lighter denim one! If I make it again, here are the changes I'll make.

1. Grading the pattern from XXS at the bust to XS at the waist
2. Shorten bodice by 1/2 inch ?
3. Stay stitch the neck

4. Insert zipper higher to reduce the gap at the back and match the seams at the back

5. Nail the pockets.