FINISHED! An Autumn Rigel Bomber

I feel like it's Rigel mania. Everyone is making one up or looking at fabric to make up.  It all started with Sophie at Cirque de Bebe with her spotty sensation which resulted of course in my first failed attempt.  Since then there has been just so many great ones it's hard to keep track of them. When I was shopping with Amy in January she bought some fabric for a version, the other week Amanda bought some fabric for hers and Kylie bought some on Saturday for another super cool one. All of them, super fun fabric and colour and print.  Just last week Clare posted her lovely ladies and Belinda her Curtain Call one and I thought damn it, the time is nigh to face my demons (and insecurities) and just make that damn bomber before Rigel mania passed me by.
So, after ruining the spotty fabric that I was going to make my first bomber out of, I started thinking about a bomber for Autumn (even through summer).  I had in mind that I would buy some Liberty cord but when I was at Tessuti in January, I ended up purchasing some of the Nelluto Autumn Cord which I had been eyeing off in the other colour ways online last year but was too slow to buy.  The weight is similar to Liberty cord.  I already had the ribbing and the zip from my failed attempt so while they may not have been the absolute perfect match, they work.  So this is definitely a subtle Rigel.   The cord being a deep colour with flowers which of course hasn't photographed particularly well. Perhaps there is a more flashy version in my future - with mis matching sleeves and bodice. But first let's talk about this one.
My previous experience with Papercut Patterns has shown that the sizing runs large. So I made an xxs. I made no other alterations to the fit.

Welt pockets.  Oh how these terrified me. I fumbled through the first one not at all sure what I was doing, but it all seemed to click with the second one. I finally realised that if I just sat the pocket down, instead of turning it over and over in my hands like some worry kerchief and ironed it as it should be, then it worked. Everything was fine.  I think I might love welt pockets now. Well, that might be going too far.
Despite liking the welt pockets...  lets face it, the insides are not nice and need to be covered up (sorry to go on, but the pattern really should have come with a lining) so I drafted a lining in some slippery yellow fabric.  This was my first time drafting a lining so I thought and thought about it disecting every single Rigel I saw.
So, this is how I lined it. I drafted a lining using the pattern pieces minus the facing (plus seam allowance).  I added a centimetre to each piece for ease and I added an inch or so onto the back piece, cutting it in 2 pieces. I sewed the lining together (minus a number of inches on the back seam. I attached the lining to the cuffs (turning the sleeves inside out and then some, attaced the hem and then the facing. I think in hindsight the cuffs should have been last!  I also had to unpick a few times to get the lining on properly as it was pulling on one side because I foolishly didn't put any notches for lining up so of course it went off a bit. I also had to hand stitch the small portion of the facing to the ribbed hem and lining.  There is probably a better way to do this but it worked for me.
Other sewers have mentioned this, but attention is needed with the zipper, if it's off then it's obvious. I think mine is ok.. phew!  The only thing I might change next time would be the weight of the interfacing - it might be a little stiff.  I hadn't thought about that until I saw these photos.
It's funny how much I doubted myself with this jacket, beating myself up because everyone could make one but me. But in the end I did it! I learnt welt pockets, drafted and lined a jacket, worked with ribbing and an open ended zipper. Will I make another one? Maybe. I need to be convinced on the style for me, but I really like the autumnal look and feel of this cord.  The days are getting shorter here, the seasons are turning and a bomber is a nice transeasonal piece.
Oh and a quick note on this photo. Have you seen "L'├ęcume des jours" (Mood Indigo) with Romain Duris, Audrey Tautou and Gad Elmaleh (I LOVE Gad by the way.... do see "Un bonheur n'arrive jamais seul" (Happiness Never Comes Alone).  Anyway, we watched it on Sunday night. They do this fun dance in it called le biglemoi where their legs become really long. There is something weird going on with my legs in this photo (the shoes!)... like I'm doing le biglemoi!

56 comments:

  1. Love it! Well done. It looks fabulous.

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  2. It 'so wonderful! I love it in the cord. I feel that mine is a little stiff and I'd love to do a softer version like yours. I also wonder about moving the neckline a little higher.

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  3. Renee //nearestthepinMarch 17, 2014 at 11:09 PM

    I've got Rigel envy :) Love your jacket, almost makes me look forward to cooler weather.

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  4. I´m in love with your Rigel. I´ve got the fabrics to make a bomber jacket and I hope it will turn out as pretty as yours. The problem is I want to make it reversible and I´m not sure how to attach the knit rib to the hem, collar and cuffs...I´m still thinking about that!

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  5. By far my very favorite version that I have seen. I love this so much. I agree that this pattern should come with a lining - esp for the price. I think im actually going to go with a burda bomber pattern for my bomber because of it. Really love this. Great job.

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  6. Bien fait, Kirsty! I love the subtle colors you used - it lets the design lines show through. And congrats on your first welt pockets and lining drafting!

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  7. i love your version of this jacket! as much as i love the patterned jackets, this one looks like it will be very useful and go with all sorts of outfits. great job on the welt pockets and lining draft! one trick to adding a lining by machine is to leave part of the lining sleeve seam open and turn the jacket out through that opening. then once everything is sewn you can either slip stitch the opening closed or edgestitch to close it up.

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  8. Impressive!! Your bomber looks great and was worth all the effort you put into it. Great pictures too!

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  9. wow this looks so great and totally makes me want one! I am holding off because it just seems silly that they wouldn't have a lining included in the pattern, and it irks me to pay that much and then have to draft my own. But I may give in as I am very envious ;) If you are ever lining a jacket again, I have used Jen's (Grainline) tutorial on how to bag a jacket lining and it is easy, with no hand sewing. Here's the link:

    http://grainlinestudio.com/2012/01/09/sewing-tutorial-how-to-bag-a-jacket-lining/



    You sew it all together inside out and leave an opening in the sleeve to turn it back right side out, then sew up the sleeve opening on the machine. Works great!

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  10. Awesome jacket, you did such nice work! I love corduroy and bombers, so this one is automatically a winner. :)

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  11. Very chic! I tip my non-welt conquering hat to you! Will have to look up that film, thanks!

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  12. Love the fabric and the sunny yellow lining but the shoes! THE shoes! seriously we need to get together and talk sewing and fabrics and shoes because I have serious shoe envy when it comes to your posts (and serious fabric envy too but you always say where you get your fabrics from).
    Rigel looks great on you and I'm sure you will get heaps of wear from it in Canberra weather.

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  13. Yay. You made it. And it looks great. Nice choice with the cord fabric.

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  14. There's NO way in this universe I could figure out how to do lining WITH instructions let alone without so mad thumbs up to you! The jacket looks great...love the fabric and how you're paired it with your tights/shorts & super long-legged jeans too.

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  15. Thanks Mel... well it was a bit of a fumble, but I got there in thend. If only my legs were really that long in real life!!

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  16. Yes, phew to finally get it off the list. That was one thing I managed to do was to cut each piece a little bit bigger for ease.

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  17. All my favourite topics!! Anytime, anywhere! These shoes I got in France :) I think it will get some use for sure.. next one might need a higher neck for the cold.

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  18. Thanks and you must look up the film for sure!

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  19. Thanks so much Emily! I am a big fan of cord as well.

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  20. Thank you so much for the Jen tip. I did see it ages ago but completely forgot it when I got to that point. Don't start me about the lining... it makes no sense. But hey.

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  21. Thanks Lisa. It feels a bit dull compared to the bright fun ones, but I do think I will get a heap of use out of it. Great tip re the lining. I did realise that it was a bit out of order what I did but I got there in the end despite a bit of fabric gymnastics!

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  22. Oh thanks.. it nearly took everything out of me! But the effort you have put into getting your fit right you could definitely do it.

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  23. Thanks Morgan! It is really a colour scheme that seems to fit with my autumn palette.

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  24. Thank you so much for your generous comment!! I can't wait to see your burda bomber.

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  25. Gosh, I thought about that problem for an age. In the end I bought the kitschy koo reversable hoodie http://kitschycoo.bigcartel.com/product/reversible-zippy-hoodie-sewing-pattern-now-with-all-sizes-18m-to-8y just so that I could undestand how to attach everything without showing the stitching. I'm sure yours will be unbelievable!! (as usual!)

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  26. Yes, it's starting to make me feel like colder weather as well!!

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  27. thanks Kathryn! Make sure you read the tips I got re bagging the lining.. there are clearly better ways that what I did!.

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  28. I so agree about the neckline. It sits quite low and not 'snuggly' enough for me. I do like it in the cord though it's lovely and soft.

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  29. Thanks so much! are you still thinking that you might make one out of that great stripe from Tessuti? If you do it will look great.

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  30. Thanks Christy!!! Have you been wearing yours much? It feels a weird style on me but I think I'll wear mine a bit through Autumn.

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  31. This.
    Is.
    Epic.
    We are so going to have a Rigel party at our next meet up. Bring it on!

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  32. Ha! No, haven't worn it at all. It's way too hot here.

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  33. I decided against the stripe denim. I found a quilted black double sided fabric at Rathdowne that I'm going to try. Can't get my head around the pockets & no lining.

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  34. It's about this time of the year when I start wearing Autumn clothes even though it's too hot for them, slowly sweltering away!

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  35. I'd love a quilted one. There is a floral quilted one in Zara for little girls that keeps catching my eye

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  36. Maider.... MasustakMarch 19, 2014 at 1:47 AM

    I love this kind of garment! Very wearable and soooo cool!!!! It looks great on you Kirsty.

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  37. I love it! The fabric is perfect and it looks like it will be really versatile. I thought I had decided not to make one and now I've seen this.... I think I want one again now!

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  38. Oh my gosh Kirsty I want to live inside your wardrobe. You are quintessentially chic and oh so stylish ALWAYS. This is just awesome and I love the ways you styled it. It looks like a perfect fabric for this bomber. You have nailed it yet again!

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  39. Cord! I never would've thought of that, but it really works. Very autumnal. I'm so ashamed i haven't even started mine! I'm gonna get onto it soon, all your tips will be so helpful. Now, to line or not to line...

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  40. Looks great. Love bomber jackets for work over skirts too.

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  41. Lovely! Congratulations on learning some new tricks. I know how you feel about not sure a style is for you. I just finished the RDC Melanie dress and don't think it's very "me". But this bomber looks lovely on you from where I'm sitting. Very Kirsten Dunst casual if that's a thing heehee

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  42. I still haven't sewn anything from that book... I must get on with it. i'll take the Kirsten Dunst look!

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  43. Such a cool jacket - loving how you've styled it. I have to hunt down that film - adore Audrey Tautou - have had a major girl crush since Amelie.

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  44. What a great idea. Will need to check the wardrobe for appropriate skirts !

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  45. Don't worry! I bought my fabric on the same day as you and only just got around to it. I think if you do pockets you should line and you are an expert so you should be fine. x

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  46. Jillian, you are such a doll! Thank you for your super generous comments.

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  47. Thanks Rachel! I wasn't sure if I was going to make it in the end but with every cool version popping up I knew I had to give it a try.

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  48. Thanks Debbie. Hope you've sorted out your overlocker purchase.

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  49. Thanks so much! I hope it will get plenty of wear in these cooler months.

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  50. Thanks Lexi! Audrey Tautou is gorgeous isn't she!! I really loved her in Priceless but that has Gad Elmaleh in it as well so that's a double bonus for me.

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  51. Wow! It looks gorgeous!! I love the fabric you used too, awesomely beautiful. I'm majorly crushing on it.

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  52. Thanks Carolyn, I'd love a little bit of cool weather now to give it a good wear!

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  53. I really needed to read this right now! I have procrastinated a lllll weekend after a horrid first welt pocket! I've made them before, on a size 2 waistcoat, this was so much harder! Now i dont want to try again...you've given me hope and I just need to get back on the horse! I've read a few blogs about lining it, it seems to be the way to go, especially to cover up the inside. I'll keep posting on IG (becsibbi) when I get back onto it!

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