FINISHED! Ocean scallop lace Coco

Completely unexpectedly, here is my second finished Coco. This time the dress.
Last week I started a muslin of a pair of Colette Clovers, but after sewing the muslin went a bit blah about the project and put them aside.  I then cut out another Kanerva, but didn't have the right thread to start sewing up so on Friday,  so thought I'd cut out the fabric for another Coco.
I bought 1.2m of this slightly stretchy knit from Tessuti when I was there in January (It's called Ocean scallop lace and is 4% elast & 96% polyamide). When I bought it I thought it might make fun leggings and even bought the Megan Nielson leggings pattern to make them up.. but then got cold feet (or legs) and never went through with it.
On Friday it seemed right to cut this fabric as a Coco. My first Coco is quite fitted so this time for a dress version I cut straight down the side, omitting the slight tapering that happens as I was looking for a slightly more 'swinging' version. I didn't quite have enough fabric so cut the sleeves cross grain (?) which turned out perfectly as I used the selvedge omitting the need for a hem.
Before I knew it, the dress was cut and I was overlocking the seams.  With my first Coco, I sewed then overlocked for neatening, but with this one I went straight to overlocking.  This always causes me a bit of a problem with the sizing as I always find it hard to overlock at big seam widths.  I need to get out the manual and read this bit again. I admit to running down the sides quite a few times until I was happy with the fit across the shoulders.  My first one fit so perfectly that it was weird to try this one and find it so big across the shoulders. It is still not perfect with a bit of excess but not a huge deal.  A product of a different fabric weight as well as no funnel neck perhaps.
By the time the sides were sewn up I knew I wanted to wear this dress to a party we were going to on Saturday afternoon.  After all I only had the neckline and hem to do.  Now Saturday mornings are extremely busy so this probably wasn't the best idea but my mind was made up.  The clock was ticking. I put out a call on instagram to Kelly and others as to how to hem as I don't love knits. Lots of suggestions were to just cut the scalloped edge, but given the weight and content of this fabric, I was worried about it rolling or fraying and Kelly suggested heming with bias tape.
I popped down to Addicted to Fabric during Oliver's piano lesson and they convinced me to use elastic in the neck and as a hemming tape. It was genius. I probably could have stretched it a bit more at the neck for an even flatter result, but I like how it makes the neck sit really flat and I like the weight it gives to the hem.
The only thing I regret was that I originally sewed the neckline and hem using a zigzag stitch. I hate this stitch. I tried to convince myself that no one would notice it but couldn't. So after finishing it and dropping Oliver to a birthday party, drove with purpose home to unpick it and use my twin needle.  Do you know how hard it was to unpick this!? Mmm, so unpicking finally finished I loaded up the twin needle but didn't change the stitch (because let's face it, now it was almost time to be leaving for the party and I was a bit panicky) and immediately broke the needle as the machine tried to do a zigzag.  #$%!  No spares.  Urgh. So single stitch it was around the neck as I faced the reality that going out to get another needle would be unsafe!
The hem remains zigzagged and will forever because let's face it, no one is going to notice that part of the dress. I took these photos Sunday morning, recreating my look from Saturday afternoon. I really love the long socks with ankle boots look.. could be my Autumn style.  I really like this look on me and think with the right fabric there might be another Coco in my life.

45 comments:

  1. LOOOOVVVEEEE THISSSSSSS! Such a great dress. And you little knee socks are the perfect accessory!

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  2. This looks fab! I have seen so many lovely cocos. What's putting me off is finding the right weight knit fabric. But am I right in thinking this lace knit is a lighter weight than your last one? Sewmanju.wordpress.com

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  3. This turned out so great!! I really like the shape without the tapering, I may have to try one like that. And the elastic as hem tape- genius! I'll definitely be using that idea in the future!

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  4. I love it! Did you line it? Your boots are super cool.

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  5. Thanks Rachel. No I didn't line this one. I just wore a slip underneath which works well.

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  6. Thanks Kelly - and thanks for your weekend advice!

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  7. Thanks so much! This knit is definitely lighter weight than the ponte but is a reasonably heavy knit with good body. I hope that helps. Good luck finding a good weight. I'd start with ponte if you have any doubts.

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  8. Thanks Heather! I see this little dress and my socks in high rotation this autumn!

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  9. Love it!especially the short cut with long fitted sleeves

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  10. Kirsty this fabric is just so perfect for this dress! How awesome are snazzy knit shifts? I was thinking about making a long sleeve knit dress for winter, and you've just convinced me that it is absolutely essential. And sewing deadlines - always always creates drama doesn't it?

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  11. I love this look! The fabric is really pretty & I like the idea of cutting the sleeves using the selvedge. I've cut out a scout tee in a stretch lace but haven't started sewing yet as I'm unsure on how to do the edges- maybe I'll get some hemming tape, or elastic? What type of elastic did you use?

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  12. Maider.... MasustakApril 8, 2014 at 5:35 PM

    It turned out fab!!! Love the whole outfit :-) This kind of silhoutte works very well on you.

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  13. This is a great look! I love the shape and that fabric is perfect. Do you have to wear a slip underneath as it looks quite lacy? I am with you on leaving the hem. I truly think we get way too caught up in the details sometimes. As you say, no one will ever know... Except you... And if it truly bothers you make the time and go back to it... Bugger, I went around in circles there didn't I?

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  14. socks + boots + coco = AWESOME! Love it! And the elastic tip is brilliant.

    I got the trouser fit blahs this weekend too - maybe there's something in the air. I think my jeans will have to wait until after the easter hols as I just can't bring myself concentrate on them.

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  15. I love your whole look!! The fabric is gorgeous and such a great choice for this dress. I'm glad you were able to finish it in time for the party. Thanks for the tip about the elastic!

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  16. You've done it again, Kirsty. What a tremendously cool Coco.


    Thanks so much for the elastic tip! What a phenomenal idea. The neckline is the only part of this dress that ever gives me any sort of grief depending on the weight/stretchiness of the knit, so this will help so much.


    Lurve it all!!!

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  17. OMG, I freaking LOVE this! It's so cool and looks awesome with the tights and booties.

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  18. Great dress! Love the whole look. I love it when a dress goes together quickly. Nice work on the neckline as well, I would never have thought to use elastic. Brilliant.

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  19. Thanks Margo! Elastic was a revelation to me as well.

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  20. Thanks Mel. A winner despite a little fitting flaw in the shoulders.

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  21. Oh yes do give the elastic a go as it worked so nicely. Loving all your coco's hope you have more to come!

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  22. Thanks Shar. Yes, it was all a bit of a stetch and a stress but got there.

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  23. Thanks Jo! There are great fitting tips on the Colette site but it was just too much great info if you know what I mean. It just seemed too hard and not at all fun. I think post holidays for me as well.

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  24. Yes, I wear a slip under it to keep it decent! I followed your logic perfectly!!

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  25. Thanks so much. It is a silhouette that I like to wear :)

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  26. I can recommend the elastic! For the hem I just didn't stretch it very much. The elastic is in the photo .. it is about 1.5cm and with a lacey edge. I think they suggested that because it's quite pretty but in the end I folded it under fabric so you can't see it.

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  27. That makes me feel better that I did as you would have!!

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  28. Yay to your blog.. I just went and checked it out. love that moss skirt!

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  29. ALWAYS! I think now that I have this little knit in my life I might be keeping my eyes out for another !! Can't wait to see yours.

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  30. Thanks. My favourite shape is long sleeves and short skirts :)

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  31. I think you chose a really interesting knit, and the coco pattern is great to showcase its prettiness :)
    The whole look is perfect!

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  32. This fabric is just so lovely. I think Coco was the perfect pattern to let it shine! And I love your little socks!

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  33. Love the dress. The fit is spot on. Really nice choice of fabric.

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  34. I totally ordered Coco after seeing your last one, it's all cut out and ready to be sewn tomorrow. This one is gorgeous, what a saga though. I love you in navy. I hope you get back to your other project especially the Clovers, I'd love to see what you do with that pattern.

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  35. You are really rocking the knee sock look - and now the chill is in the air its also very practical! Your dress looks very hip and you wouldn't notice any of the issues you mentioned. I really need to invest in a serger so I can start making lovelies like this!

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  36. Your fabric choice made this dress so special! Those socks are the perfect complement to the dress :)

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  37. Just love the fabric used - it is perfect for the style.

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  38. When I bought this fabric a dress was the last thing I had on my mind. Funny how things change !

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  39. Thanks Morgan! I need to buy up big on the long socks so I'm ready to style all my outfits with them this autumn.

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  40. Thanks Lexi. This pattern is drafted for sewing without a serger so you can still give it a go :)

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  41. That's a great look, so cozy and chic

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